A weekend in Venice

A great friend of mine is in Venice this weekend ( lucky her)…

I just received a text asking me if had any good recommendations as she was boarding her first Vaporetto (water taxi) from the station. Yes yes yes I said… and here they are. This is literally an extended version of what I sent to her.

Water taxi into Venezia. The most glamorous way to arrive. Ever.

Venice is truly La Serenissima, or the most serene. It's enchanting, romantic and really a miracle of a city. You cant help but feeling slightly carried away as you jet from place to place on the most stylish of water taxis. Thats my first recommendation actually. Water taxis are not cheap but to either arrive or depart Venice to the station, it is a FABULOUS and oh so glamorous way to start or end your weekend. Do it. It's worth the money.

The rest of the weekend you can jet about on the 'water buses' which are super cool too. They literally circumnavigate Venice (one going one direction and one the other) so easy to jump on and off.

General: Tourists and not being a horrible blight

Tourists outnumber locals in Venice (pre COVID at least) around 40:1 in the summer months. You can imagine and see why the locals are a little overrun and why it needs protecting.

Having said that, most of the 'groups' or tick the box travellers stick to certain areas (notably around San Marco / St Marks Square and the Rialto Bridge so my other good tip (as for Rome) is to

1. Avoid August like the plague.

2. Go to the tourist hot spots either first first thing in the morning or last thing at night. They are magical at this time and you can truly appreciate the spectacular nature and why they are such 'must see's' in the first place.

Molto Chic Gondolier.

Once you get even slightly off the beaten track of the tourist path, Venice is a different city. You can be literally 100 m from 'the main tourist road/track' and be out of the fracas- so try to do that wherever possible. I also wouldn't recommend a Gondola ride unless you truly must. Very expensive and a definite tourist trap. The Water buses (or taxis above) are much better and cooler way to see the city.

Must see's

Venice is all about drinking in the city. Walking over small canals, marvelling at the way the city operates on water and the history and blow- your -mind beauty of this incredible place. So, do that. Get on the water bus, take in all the sights, breathe in the salt water smells and just be. Start by seeing Venice from the water (see water taxi and bus tip above) and then walk walk walk. Get lost and into off the beaten track areas. Don't tick off any 'must do's - well to to start with anyway.

Drinking it in. Delicious.

Having said that, once you have done that delicious drinking in for at least for a morning, the Peggy Guggenheim Museum is one of the most delightful places I have ever been and a must see.

I recently read the Unfinished Palazzo, by Judith Mackerell which tells the story of the palazzo where this gallery/ museum is now held and the three remarkable women whose house this was and who set the standard for partying along the Grand Canal. Made me love it even more. The original owner Louisa Casati frequently paraded around Venice with at least one pet leopard, for example. Highly recommend reading this book before you come here as it will just make you more engrossed in the place and Venice itself for that matter.

Anyway, back to Peggy. She collected art, artists, surrounded herself with beauty and was the personification of flamboyancy. She knew how to throw a party that is for sure and when you see this house and the collection, you can understand why. I actually felt a little jealous of the guests of any of her parties. Not sure if historic jealousy is a thing but you certainly feel an element of FOMO having missed out on her Venice Art Biennale parties in the 50s. Now her former palazzo is the MOST glorious art gallery and the surrounding garden one of the most peaceful places in Venice. Go, Go and Go.

The whole area, Campo S.Toma (and Trattoria Toma) close by the Peggy are lovely too. Great little Bacaro, chic (read not tacky) souvenirs and shopping. Go, go and go again.

Part of the beautiful sculpture garden at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.

Eating and Drinking

As I have mentioned, it's all too easy to fall into tourist traps in this enchanting city, so first tip is to avoid eating or drinking near any tourist attractions. Canareggio district is fabulous , off the beaten track and and the spot of my first food recommendation Osteria Paradiso Perduto @osteriaparadisoperduto.

1. Osteria Paradiso Peruduto (Paradise Lost) - Lunch or Aperitivo and Dinner (and live music after)

It’s a boho ramshackle joint on a gorgeous small canal but with fabulous food and the most incredible owner and chef, Maurizio. Last time I was there he was shucking fresh pumpkins ( for pumpkin tortellini of dreams) with one hand, drinking a negroni with the other and greeting all who arrived, gesturing wildly in an inimitable Venetian manner with both. Osteria

Paradiso Perduto is a Bacaro. No direct translation for that , but roughly means a bar with fabulous food or snacks ( cicchetti). Perhaps Gastro pub might be the closest thing we have. Venice is full of these Bacaro but Paradiso Perduto is one of the greats. Delicious aperitivo lined up on the bar ( Venetian specialities such as baccalà ( creamy cod dip), squid ink risotto balls and deep fried mozzarella sandwiches) and then platters of sea food and delicious pastas come marching out of the open kitchen for the main courses. Live music at night but all day it is full of locals dropping in, long lunches and well heeled studiously scruffy chic groups of friends meeting for a an Aperol or glass of wine from the local Venezia Friuli region which is right on Venice’s doorstep , paired with the delicious cicchetti ( those snacks again) . It’s fabulous. Avoid the traps and make a beeline for Maurizio and Osteria Paradiso Perduto.

2. Al Merca, Campo Bella Vienna.

Great place for drinks in the Piazza and Chichetti (substantial delicious snacks). All the local Venitians have Aperol spritz here late morning on the weekends after going to the Rialto food market. Do that. Its fabulous.

3. Naranzaria, Rialto Fish Market.

This is right next to the Rialto fish market (which is worth a look) and a raw fish/snack/wine bar. Great for a delicious seafood plate. Very cool/buzzy atmosphere.

4. Estro Vino e Cucina, Dorsoduro.

SUPER fun Wine bar. We actually went to this place twice. It has a huge wine cellar but the vibe is hip, cool and local. You can do that oh-so-Venetian thing here of grazing on tasty cicchetti at the bar which is what we did, or book a table.

5. Da Ivo.

So, George Clooney and Muccia Prada like to dine here. That might tell you a thing or two- this place has become quite famous/ renowned but it is still amazing food and quite understated. It's a little tricky to find and not cheap (not ridiculous either) but a cool trattoria with fabulous food. Mr Delicious has always said you can rate the quality of a restaurant on how well it prepares Tiramisu, and let me tell you, on that scale, Da Ivo delivers. I even took a picture of the naughty Tiramisu as was so good.

6. Ristorante L'Orte dei Mori, Near Ponte dei Mori (bridge), Cannareggio.

Canareggio is a very cool area for a wander around and is definitely off the tourist track. This little restaurant I stumbled across one day when checking out the church nearby (Madonna Dell' Ortohttp://churchesofvenice.com/madellort.htm) which has the most incredible Tintoretto paintings just casually hanging on the walls) as well as the Church of Santa Maria Assunta (aka the Gesuiti) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I_Gesuiti,_Venice which has the most jaw dropping tiles you have ever seen. Loved it.

The decor of this restaurant is a little strange (local artists) but the food is EXCELLENT. A great local, fabulous food find. Hit the two churches and drink in the art and beauty before or after lunch and....there is a wonderful few hours right there.

Cafe/ Cicchetti/ Food Market

1. Cafe Florian

I know I said not to eat or drink if you can avoid it near the tourist hotspots but worth breaking that rule (if you go early!) and stop off at the oldest cafe in the world; Cafe Florian.

It's absolutely stunning and was the original haunt for artists, writers and the avant garde. It was also the only cafe to allow women (scandalous) so, perhaps naturally, was a favourite of Casanova as well. This cafe is a bit like going to Cafe de Flores or Les Deux Magots in Paris. Gorgeous, certainly worth a look, an expensive coffee perhaps but dont linger and certainly don't eat.

2. Ciccheti.

Cichetti are one of the best things about Venice, and there are many. They are basically substantial incredible snacks ( a bit like tapas) which are served at the many wonderful Bacaro (or wine/ tapas bars) around Venice.

Some of the classics of the Venetian Bacaro spread are: Crostini– Mini bruschetta/toasted bread slices with various toppings- can be quite gourmet, Tramezzini – Little crustless sandwiches Polpette/polpettini fritte – Fried balls of meat (di carne), tuna (di tonno), cheese or potatoes. Baccalà – Traditional salt-cod (served as a pâte on polenta fingers or crostini. Tastes a little like fish pie. So good and comforting and Venetian food in a nutshell. Sarde/sardelle in saor – Sardines with a sweet and sort of sour sort dressing of cured onions, raisins and pine nuts. Squid Ink Risotto balls- Anything squid ink is a Venetian classic. You will find the pastas and risotto in almost any Venetian restaurant. The cicchetti are often little fried squid ink risotto balls. Yum.

BEST BACARO

You can easily just do a Bacaro hop and in fact there are some fun food tours that do just that. Or you can just follow these!

* Osteria Da Zemei -

One of the great place for Cicchetti.

*Al Timon, Jewish Quarter

Fun, Buzzy and some of the best cicchetti in town. Slightly more adventurous (tongue, porchetta, meatballs etc) but super delicious and a spread to marvel at.

* Cantine del Vino già Schiavi

Quite swish but lovely bacaro but with an incredible wine bar/ list. Very very naughty warmed lardo (pork fat) on crostini which is one of the best things ever to put in your mouth.

* Cantina Duo Spade

Also a fab wine bar (are you noticing a theme here) as well as amazing food. Super romantic little hole in the wall, said to be the place where Casanova (again!) wined and dined his ladies after meeting them on the Rialto Bridge.

3. Drinks

Venice (and the whole of Northern Italy really) is famous for the Aperol Spritz. Typically they are served in Venice in a short glass (not large wine glass like we have come to love)- delicious however served.

Bellinis of course, said to have been invented at Harry's Bar here in Venice. Locals don't drink these but a real nod to the Americans who came and loved and lived here.

Wine: The Veneto region, right on the doorstep of Venice have some of the most incredible wine and vineyards. I will do a whole post on the wines from this region (and a fab day I had at Vin Expo in Verona) but for now, while you are here, recommend leaning into the crisp mineral Soave whites, Amarone / Valpolicella reds and of course Prosecco!

4. Rialto food market- Fabulous.

Go early in the morning (this whole area needs an early morning) and then have coffee in the area just behind there. Venetians are partial to a post market Prosecco or Aperol. Not uncommon to see 10.30 or 11 am post market drinks with the cicchetti (those snacks again!).

Fabulous. Lucky you. Enjoy Venice. It's glorious.

Water taxi farewell.