Roma: La Dolce Vita in the Eternal City
- maria23470
- Oct 20, 2023
- 13 min read
My First "email tips list" was a combination of tips I cobbled together when I had first moved to Italy (as an adult). It was a list of places from my Roman friends, a Roman ex-boyfriend, my old boss (total foodie from the South of Italy who had lived in Rome), a few obsessed winos and me! Places I discovered or experienced and didn't want to forget. I passed it on to a friend (who loved the tips) who passed it on to another, and then I soon was getting requests from all over the world and from from unconnected people and so Maria Does Delicious the blog was born....
So here is Roma: Appropriately the first Maria Does Delicious post.
I love Rome. Truly the most incredible city.
Chaotic, Frenetic, Fabulous. A history of millennia coupled with an inimitable style and energy.
My first tip for Rome (or any Italian city for that matter) is don't go from mid July or anywhere near it in August.
Even if you are thinking 'oh but it will be fine'....Don't. Go somewhere else.
All the Romans go on holiday in August. To the beach. Many shops, restaurants and bars are shut. All those that have to stay behind are there because they have to. For Tourists. They may be grumpy.
You will not get the best out of Rome and may end up sucked into a tourist hell.
I think the best time is probably May, June or Sept/Oct but having said that it is incredible any time. Just NOT August.
Ok so with that out of the way.
My recommendation in Rome apart from the below is just to walk walk walk. Every corner is something incredible and historic and walking around you get a great sense of the city. One of my favourite things is to walk across the bridges and the light in Rome is just beautiful. A delicious golden light that makes you feel happy and though La Dolce Vita really does exist.
Top Sights
1. St Peters: A MUST do.
Top tips: Book Vatican tickets ahead of time. Skipping the queue but spending a few more euro is a real economy in this instance.
St Peters is stunning- walk to the top of the Dome if you can. A little bit of a tiring walk up but INCREDIBLE views all over Rome. There are also night tours which are pretty good. Check this site for a good summary of the night tours available but I did one called Dark Tours which was fabulous.
In fact, Rome at night generally is utterly spectacular. Beat the heat of the middle of the day and take advantage of less queues, cooler temperatures and the enchantment of the evening starting with the "passegiata" (early evening stroll), an Italian way of life. See and be seen.
2. Vatican city/ Sistine Chapel. Another MUST do.
Definitely book so you can avoid the huge queues. If possible- may even be worth getting a guide. I went with an Art history student to the Vatican museum and it was absolutely fascinating. Well worth it. Context Tours are very good- it is about £50 for part of a small tour but that gets you entrance and you skip the queues and a fascinating insight. I would try and go to the Sistine chapel and / or St Peters in the heat of the day- 2-4- after lunch when everyone else is taking a siesta. The Sistine chapel really is just incredible. They also do night tours as mentioned above.
3. Roman Forum/ Coliseum
A good half morning. Walk all through and you can feel the ancient Roman life. I would also definitely reccomend a glorious walk up to Piazza del Campidoglio by night, for a great view over the Forum- gorgeous. As mentioned, Rome in the early evening for a stroll is just heaven.
4. Pantheon- go to the Pantheon and Trevi fountain together.
Top tip: Little walking tour. EARLY in the morning. Start at the Trevi fountain early (like 7 am)- walk down and stop for coffee at St Eustachio or Tazzo D’oro (they are close by and considered some of the best coffee in Rome) and then head down to the Pantheon.
After about 10.30 am it is just tourist bus and tour guide central. Too much.
If you do this little walk starting at the fountain, stop for a coffee and then head to the Pantheon. You will be then ready for lunch. Or you could also come back to the Trevi Fountain in the evening and relive your best Marcello Mastroianni and Anita Ekburg (from the film La Dolce Vita).
The Pantheon is really just incredible- it is said that it would not be able be constructed today using modern design techniques but it is around 2000 years old….amazing.
5. Campo dei Fiori
Old historic flower market in centre of Rome- nice little piazza with good cafes, restaurants. Gorgeous and a fab walk to do is from Piazza Navona (next) down to Campo Fiori, meandering as you go.
6. Piazza Navona.
Gorgeous. Otherwise known as ‘the drawing room of Europe’. Great people watching and lovely to walk through. La Chiesa San Luigi dei Francesi is a church - just off the Piazza Navona- a little inside tip. There are beautiful Caravaggio frescos in this church- a tiny church not frequented particularly by tourists. Stunning- right up the front by the altar on the left- amazing. GO. Slightly odd opening house but free and you can pop in for a 20 min browse.
7. Trastevere.
Trastevere is the old bohemian neighbourhood across the Tiber River. In fact its name actually means 'cross the Tiber'. Lots of cute little streets, artisty sort of flavour. Good for aperitivo- go around 5pm ish for a wander and a drink. Fun bars, cafes, artisty shops, photographers heaven. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere- very beautiful piazza and church in the heart of Trastevere. Lovely to sit in the piazza.
9. Villa Borghese
There is a great art gallery in the Borghese Gardens. Lovely to walk through the park (north Rome) and have an hour or so in the gallery- and see the old villa of the Roman families. Beautiful botanic gardens - cool and lush.
10. Spanish steps
I don’t particularly think they are anything to write home about myself- they can be very touristy-but follow the advice re timing above (early morning or early evening) but interesting to see Keats house where he died and takes you to the lovely Via Veneto, Via Condotti areas which are lovely to walk around. Spanish steps are just a bit of a tourist trap.
11. Coliseum
Incredibly touristy but famous for a reason. WELL worth a walk around and again just quite mind blowing. Suggest perhaps again going early evening or first thing in the morning.
Food and Restaurants
Ok so now on to the other important stuff!
First a word about Roman fare and "Italian food" in general. Really there is no such thing as Italian food. Not if you ask an Italian anyway. We forget Italy was only “born “ as a country in 1850 and before that, regions operated and were conquered by all sorts over the millennia. So - the dialects, foods, agriculture, buildings etc in Italy differ a lot! Think of each region very much as you would a different country, particularly foodwise and you will be rewarded. Italians certainly do.
So.....what is Roman food?
It is based on what is known as "Cucina Povera" or 'Poor Cuisine' (thats a rough translation) but basically meaning that people would eat what they could get their hands on. Luckily, in this region (Lazio), that was a lot. Fresh seasonal vegetables, grains and where meat was available (perhaps offcasts from the wealthy Popes or Roman families) all available parts of the animal. True 'top to tail' eating.
So....where do I recommend you find the best of Roma?
1. Taverna Trilussa.
Great- possibly my fave restaurant in Rome. Big pastas cooked in a pan- lots of locals. Go late- 9.30-10 pm to eat. The Cacio e Pepe (literally cheese and pepper Pasta and the Amatricana Pasta) both Roman specialities are delicious. Go hungry and don't forget the cheese trolley.
2. Maccheroni- near Piazza Navona.
An old butchers shop converted into a restaurant. Great local dishes- lovely little back street behind Piazza Navona. Absolute fave and great wine bar next door too.
3. Da Augusto.
This is a family run restaurant (3 generations of women) in Trastevere. This is traditional Roman fare. Expect Top to tail cooking- Romans use every bit of the animal. It is a very inexpensive, popular and delicious restaurant serving home-style cooking. Absolutely no frills, but no compromise on good food. The bill usually around €30 for 2 people with wine!
4. Taverna La Ripetta (Jewish Quarter)
Family restaurant- incredible Roman Jewish Food. The Spanish Jewish food of Rome is a whole another thing- amazing history but also....the flavours. If you think you know artichokes. Think again.
5. Amatriciana
Speaking of Amatriciana. The restaurant by the same name is fantastic. The story goes that around 1870 a lady migrated from Amatrice (a town north of Rome) to Rome, and started cooking the bucatini famous to the region, on the very spot the restaurant is in today. It is old school, and amazing Roman cooking.
6. La Pratolina. Roman style (Pinsa) Pizza.
Roman/ Pinsa Pizza is slightly differnt to the original from Napoli. A little doughier, but light and airy (they add olive oil in the dough in Roma and not in Naples). For excellent pinsa-style pizza, La Pratolina is fab. Gorgeous setting- but super popular with locals so book a table if you can or go early.
7. Il Fico
In a beautiful little square off Piazza Navona. Not high end but fresh & lovely. Idyllic fairy lit square makes it utterly romantic by night too 🙂
Awesome trattoria in Trastevere.
9.Ar Galleto Piazza Farnese
This another typically rustic restaurant located in the centre of Rome just in front of the French Embassy (Piazza farnese)…Pasta Carbonara is the go to here …but as a starter you have to try both the mozzarella which is some of Rome’s finest and the Prosciutto which will have you remembering it long after you leave.
10. Casa Copelle
Fantastic food. Local cool crowd and great service and wine list. Not touristy.
11. Roma Sparita
Great atmospheric place in Trastevere. Famous for Cacio e Pepe pasta.
12. Brillo Parlante
A wine bar but also good food- in via delle Fontanelle, Rome
13. Da Lucia (Trastevere)
Very atmospheric.Great Roman dishes- delicious little trattoria. Artichokes a speciality.
14. Cesare al Casaletto
Really great trattoria in Rome. Buzzy, busy (def book) and amazing Roman fare. Its out of the centre and slightly been discovered by tourists now but the food is really really really excellent. Its been called "the definitive Roman Trattoria" by chefs and food critics and it lives up to the hype.
15. Pastificio San Lorenzo
A very “ cool” restaurant in an old factory/ artists studio- modern Roman cuisine and fun buzzy atmosphere.
16. Felice
Testaccio area which is kind of a late night dining / going out destination (like Shoreditch in London). This is an amazing restaurant – solid Roman cooking. Very busy though- you will need to book. Via Mastro Giorgio, Testaccio.
16. Salumeria Roscioli.
This is the deli of heaven. Plus a FABULOUS wine bar and great fixed meal. GO GO GO. Near Campo Dei Fiori. Super fun and the owners are charming, expansive and stylish , oh so Romani.
17. Santa Lucia: just opposite Hotel Raphael -below
It is gorgeous- get a table outside. quite ££ through. Have had lots of very fun summers evenings at the outdoor tables here. It is what Roman outdoor summer evening dreams are made of.
18. Da Nino.
Is actually Tuscan food (i.e. not Roman) but VERY good. http://www.ristorantenino.it/
19. Pizzeria La gatta mangiona (literally the greedy cat!)
Incredible pizzas- 60 hour dough- delicious zucchini flower toppings. Very good. Hilairious sort of Cat themed restaurant but the pizza is tops.
Brunch
Romans (and Italians for that matter) don't really do brunch. Breakfast is typically a cappuccino or other milky coffee, pastry, fruit or something light- cheese or meats. Perhaps a boiled egg if your are lucky. There are a few places now that have started to try to do American/British style brunches but for me it doesn't really sit right. When in Rome right.... But if you are really craving a bagel or avocado toast then try these places.
1. Urbana 47- in Monti
Monti is the cool up coming area of Rome. Not chic but cool kids.
2. Coromandel and Caffe de Arti
Also worth a look if you really need US/UK style brunch.
Drinks/ Aperitivo
1. Terrace bar- Hotel Raphael- a secret rooftop bar.
Looks like you are just walking into this hotel- behind Piazza Navona and all a bit strange. But – just ask them to direct you to the rooftop bar. Take the lift up to the top floor and there is an amazing view over Rome. Have a drink up the top- not cheap for a drink/ quite formal and you are definitely pay for the view but absolutely stunning views at sunset- well worth it. Old school Roma.
Other good rooftop bars:
2. La Terrasse Cuisine & Lounge in the Hotel - Sofitel, 47 Via Lombardia
A v ‘cool’ rooftop bar with great views.
3. Hotel Minerva
Overlooks the Pantheon and Berninis Elephant statue and/or sweeping views of the Roman rooftops. Simply walk straight through the lobby of Hotel Minerva, take the elevator to the top floor and follow the signs.
4. Eitch Borromini
This is newly opened and overlooks Piazza Navona. One of Romas best rooftop bars- stunning views all across the city. Will need to book as the secret is apparently out.
Other bars
1. Bar della Pace
I have sadly have found out that this fabulous place is now closed having lost a 35 year battle with the landlord) but have included in here as a tribute to a fabulous meeting place and 35,000 strong petition to prevent the closure. Try Chiostro Bramante instead for a coffee for a coffee on the same street.
2.Enoteca Ferrara- Wine bar close to Taverna Trilussa.
Wines served by the glass and good aperitivo. Fun little local place- no sign outside but worth the search. Google address. Their is an excellent restaurant attached (which is quite high end dining) but the wine bar is a fab, rustic, hip wine bar with staff who know their wines and an amazing cellar.
Coffee
Ok...so...Roman rules for coffee. In fact, really Italian rules (despite my earlier comment about different traditions and foods) this one is National.
Don’t drink coffee with milk after midday-it is a major faux pas in Italia. Really, if you think about it, having milk with lots of food is not good for your digestion. So- espresso after meals, or perhaps a little macchiato (a stain) of milk. Otherwise it's cappuccino in the morning until 10.30 / 11 am at the latest, espresso after meals or in the afternoon, or lungo (long black) at a pinch.
Also ....DON’T sit down (you pay for the privilege). Do as the Romans do and order at the bar- lots of hand gesturing. It's quite fun when you get into it.
1. San Eustacio Piazza di Sant'Eustachio 82, Rome, Italy and Caffe D’oro (around the corner)
Both amazing coffee- old school- Art Nouveau places for coffee, not far from the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain. Gorgeous.
Given their locations, and being the 'home of Roman coffee' they can be super busy, but I treat it like a pilgrimage, a bit like having croissants at Le Deux Magots or Cafe de Flore in Paris. In other words, great. But know what to expect.
3. Also great coffee place- in Santa Maria Trastevere- piazza in the heart of Trastevere.
Fabulous orange juice and cappuccino. The café closest to the church- facing the church on the right. I don't even know the name but have spent many a dream morning wandering through Trastevere, stopping for a little peace in Santa Maria Trastevere and then a coffee here. Dreamy.
4. Bar du Cappucino
Also WONDERFUL for...you guessed it. Cappucino.
5. Antico Cafe del Moro, Trastevere.
Quite possibly one of the most photogenic cafes have ever been to. The sign particularly is incredible (shows the Italian soldiers at the time engaged in the (first) Italian/ Ethiopian war- offering a Fernet Brance to three Ethopian ladies). Got to love it. This is actually now more of a wine bar/aperitivo place but worth a stop.
Otherwise look for the cafes with lots of people standing at the bar -you will know they have either read and understand the coffee etiquette or are Italian and know their espresso!
Gelato
This could of course be an entire post all on its own....and I might even just get to that one day. Will just share one tip which has stood me in good stead with gelato in Italy (again a National rule this one!)
Never eat “Peaky” gelato- i.e. that which is piled up in peaks and sits above the top of the container. It is full of preservatives, colours etc. Go for the good stuff- bio/ organic etc. It's more subtle, not garish colours and sometimes even hidden away in silver containers. The difference is insane.
Also- especially in Summer, the gelato shop is where Italians congregate late at night. If you think that queue at midnight is for some trendy new club, think again. More than likely it is for a gelateria. I can't count the times I marvelled at the scene outside a gelato shop (midnight, 1am) and the literal love for food Italians have. It's a scene. And you cant help but love it.
So....where to get the best......
1. Il Gelato di San Crispino
Near Trevi fountain. AMAZING gelato.
2. Giolitti in Via Uffici del Vicario, 40 (near the Parliament)
Is also incredible- more local that San Crispino.
3. Gelato Old http://gelateriaoldbridge.com/ Bridge
Considered by my old boss to be the best in Rome...
4. Punto Gelato
In a few locations locations (next to Ponte Sisto and Sant’Eustachio) its dam delicious.
5. Otaleg
“Gelato” spelled backwards (which I dont love for a name but all is forgiven when you try this incredible gelato). It used to just have one location on the outskirts of Rome but now there is one in Trastevere. Go. You will be very very happy.
Shopping
Main shopping street for Chanel, Gucci etc and great People watching is just down from the Spanish Steps - Via Condotti, starting at the foot of the Spanish Steps, and also Via Frattina which runs parallel. Fun to walk around but shopping wise I think Via Sistina is the best shopping- small stylish boutiques. Via Del Corso- is the High St brands- main shopping street. There is also some good shopping around Campo Dei Fiori.
Beach Near Rome
Top tips: Rome is not far from the beach and quite fun to head out there to a beach club for the day.
Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with quite 'trendy' beach clubs called stabilimenti with chairs, umbrellas etc while the Cancelli ( which are the gates) offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes only about an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. There are a few good ones and everything from family fun park type places to trendy Ibiza style hangouts.
A lot of Speedo swimsuits on display and what I like to call 'Italian Swimming' which is standing up to ones knees, chatting with your neighbour and feeling the sun on your back, before heading back for a coffee or a solid long lunch.
The best I think are:
Shilling Club at Ostia. Think whitewashed wood furniture, great food and a lovely beach out in front.
Alternitavely go to Fregene , equidistant to Roma in respect of Ostia. The bar I would go to which does great cocktails/drinks is: Singita . It's sort of an Ibiza style beach club.
For food in Fregene…I would go to : Onda Anomala (it’s a short walk along the beach)- really delicious and again whats not to love about a delicious Med long lunch.
So that's Roma in a very short nutshell. Rome is as I said the most incredible, absorbing, energetic, fabulous city.
Style oozes from its ancient pores and the golden light makes everything and everyone appear as in a Golden Dream. Avoid the tourist hotspots, crowds and tick the box travellers, and do as the Roman's do. It is quite simply fabulous.
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